Sacrificing Cheetahs for a migration

There was some misunderstanding at the start of the day. We declared that we had not yet
seen a cheetah so that would be outstanding if possible, before heading up to the Mara river
to see a possible wildebeest migration. Our guide took that to mean we would be content if
we saw a cheetah. In the end we did get the first part of the equation correct.
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Thereafter when it became evident that we were not heading north the day was spent reflecting on
the fortunate sightings we did have. can't fume about what-if's forever. There's always next
trip!

Serengeti Dreaming - Is another dusty, long, uncomfortable safari worth it?

After the mountain we spent a couple days relaxing in Moshi and Arusha, very necessary steps
considering the bronchitis diagnosis that we got from the clinic. So rest was paramount.
In the end, considering all this again in a once-in-a-lifetime context, we figured the
Serengeti was more than worth a run through. The part we missed is that with the slightly
abridged version of the route we would have a long day of travel up to Serengeti National park,
not all that deflating until you get on the roads and realize they are even worse than expected.
The tracks inside the parks were better than the roads to get there so after 8 long hours
and some obligatory feeding stops we did an afternoon game drive at the northern section of
the park. Lobo lodge here is idyllic in terms of its location, hidden amongst the rocks and
its lack of fences. So giraffes, buffalo, everything was at your doorstep which we were
used to by now...

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Dusty and unruly

got settled in at the lodge for another of those pleasant sunsets in the middle of nowhere

Done and Dusted

We pretty much raced down the hill in the morning through all the mud and there was lots of it. Did the early bird catches the worm race so we were in the first lot down at the office at the base of the trail. That was good because it got us our certificates and everything needed so that we could take our leave quickly and head off for a shower to get rid of a week's worth of grime and punishment.
All smiles in the end though so it was worth it to do it at least once. Only real advice is to just do some proper hiking beforehand (we couldn't given our travels) and do your best to summit at night. That way you can avoid that debilitating feeling of knowing you're not there yet when you look up.

Building Rome in a day

Widely accepted knowledge suggests that you rest for a bit and have some grub before continuing down. But as we plopped down in our tents for a brief, J started having some breathing problems. The incessant coughing that had been a fixture of this week we had originally attributed to the dust during all those safaris. Now it was getting worse and the hacking was producing liquids now.

Tired and irritable we now had to make our way back down to 3000m without any rest. In all it was about a 17 hour day when we finally made it to camp. Can do anything if you put your mind to it no?
Exhausted and deflated at least Jeanna's coughing had improved if that's the right word. At least there was no liquid accompanying it here at the lower elevations.
Still though it made for another sleepless night sucking on lemons in the cold and hoping for the best.

I'm glad it's dark...

Not too happy about the cold though. Set off at the bewitching hour to make our ascent. Loaded with ginger tea and salts and water this could easy be a short 4 hour stint or a much longer 6-7 hour numb wandering. It happened to be the latter. That mini fitness we thought we had achieved was put to rest by the harsh reality that we really hadn't done any hiking of note in the past 6 months so this is the price you pay for preparation.
No one was going much faster because only a couple people went past but small consolation when you can't breathe and can barely move.
Full credit to Baltazaar for keeping us in a rhythm so that in the end we finally got to the crater, albeit in a daze, so that we could see the summit and make a final break for it on mental strength alone.

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That was the easy part. Our guides decided to lead us down in leaps and bounds down the loose gravel slope because...well why not. That meant quite the opposite of the slow easy paced ascent. By the time we got to camp it was time for a well deserved rest...or so we thought.

Tortoise or the Hare

So in two hours we were at camp already feeling pretty good about ourselves and thinking that the past few days got us into temporary enough shape that we could do this easily. At about this time it's still early in the morning and the set of people that hiked the summit last night are beginning to descend...it is not a pretty sight.
From the catatonic to the unintelligible everyone looks ragged and worn out and dehydrated. Everyone. This one girl, poor thing, didn't know where she was, clothes falling off, dragging her feet half dead to the world as she was carried down.

So in the spirit of positive thinking we tell ourselves that there were many others who had already made it up and down so we were only witnessing the unfortunate stragglers. Whatever personal pep talk works well enough for me at this stage. J is cold and complaining that she can't wait to get off this mountain to be warm again. Almost there.

It really doesn't look any clsoer

Trick of light and shadows means the summit doesn't really look all that inviting from this side of the morning. Hoping that once we round our way past this section the slope looks more like a steep hike and less like a technical climb.

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Back on track again...

Judging by the pattern, off day, on day, off day, it meant we were due for a quiet non eventful stroll and it actually did work out that way. No stomach problems no fatigue no nothing. All good progress up the mountainside.

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Also the masses have started gathering. The crowds appear larger and larger or the camps are just smaller giving the illusion. Either way it's a lot more company on the slopes. Somewhere a bunch of kids are shouting camp songs and playing games. Ahh restless youth :)

Amble, ramble, don't let those legs wobble

Didn't get much sleep last night. Those bad eggs from day 1 took longer to affect me than it did J. End result was the same though meaning lack of shut eye.
So now dehydrated and tired it was another long walking day up the slopes. I couldn't wait for lunch.
On the way there was the random American tourist speeding past everyone, no guide in sight on his way up the mountain. Caught up to him later once he realized he maybe could not make it all on his own.
As for us it was up and then down again taking our time. Not as if there was any pressing business that we had to rush back to this week.

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Faith restored...

Poor Baltazaar. He probably woke up thinking the worst. Today we endeavored our best to show him that we were on the ball and would be no problem up this 'hill'. Slow steady going and before you knew it we were at camp in the afternoon. The relief on his face was clearly apparent much as he tried to disguise it. All was well now, balance had been restored.
Set up camp and saw for the first time the stark differences that tour prices can have. We obviously we paying at the budget end of the scale. That means you get to sit outside in the bleeding cold to have all your emails and have pleasant walks to faraway toilets while the first class and economy premium crew had their own mess tents and portable latrines. That's what you get for what you pay. No matter though, a hot cup of tea (or several) and you were warm again.

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Kilimanjaro Day 1 - No All Stars, just scrubs

Our rented gear wasn't really up to scratch but it was good enough to start the day with. After watching with amazement how the porters and their bags get weighed we lumbered on past them to the start of the trail.
It was pretty much easy going as was destined to be the case on this Machame route.
Unfortunately, haven't forgotten that I was not at all fit and trying to carry as little as possible I didn't really stock up on water. That lead to a mild (euphemism for severe) case of cramps at camp 1. Now imagine the look on our guide's Baltazaar's face trying to convince him that all is well and that I only needed water and rest. You could see his mind working somersaults trying to figure out if his clients would even make it through the night!
On top of that there was something rotten in our pack lunches so the night was spent outdoors in the toilet rather than in the tents and this was by no means a warm experience. In retrospect at least it was a clear night full of shooting stars.Still though a night to forget.

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Tanzania

View Larger Map

Crossed the border by bus which was a bit confusing for a while as we thought the bus was leaving us at the border. Made it to Arusha and then on to Moshi to prepare for the Kilimanjaro hiking.
Part of that involved running the town withdrawing large sums of money because this operation was taking cash only. What a spectacle but we scraped up the cash and got everything confirmed....once we sorted out the actual start date which was another bone of confusion. Auspicious beginning no less.

Early morning for the hunt

Tried to get the lions on a hunt but didn't work out. They were already eating once we got there. Still no complaints though as the trip was worth it.

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Back to camp then return to Nairobi. One observation is that the roads here are so bad that vehicles actually avoid the asphalt and drive on the dirt. Let the 4x4, minivan and overlanders prevail.

better off road

Overland

our cruise mobile

Dispelling the National Geographic Myth

So you look at all these wild documentaries on tv about life on the African plains and all you see is non stop chases, continuous hunting and perpetual noises and cries of strife and wailing of death. You get here and realize everybody lives quite harmoniously. The whole area is quiet. Lions sit 200m from supposed prey and everybody is just chillin, minding their own business. Quite peaceful actually and all the more enchanting.
Television with its quick edits and time lapse photography have made us accustomed to only high strung living. Not the case here at all!

Highlight of the day was the black rhino sighting given the rarity of it. Niceness!!!

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In the Mara the lions don't care

Next day it was off for some more game. We were promised lions and there were many. They also are not shy, coming right up to the vehicles with their cubs as well. Works for us tourists!

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It was almost a full moon too I think so a good night to be outside the tent. Captured splendidly below I think by our cheap no frills no nothing camera.