Beach life in Mahe

This was meant to be a relax portion of the trip. Tried to get some diving done here but one of
shops had nothing available at the time so it was just explore the island and rest on the
beach and watch the sunset and the stars.
It's green, hot,  humid with beaches and happy people. This place is just like home. More expensive though accommodation wise. Not a place for the weary backpacker on a budget. We found new and interesting ways of using a coffee maker for cooking pasta, boiling eggs, preparing noodles while stuffing ourselves with the cheaper dishes available within the confines of our room. Culinary indoor delights!

Started each day with a walk out to the beach after some eating to figure out what to do for the rest of the day

By lunchtime each day, decided the sun was too beastly to venture out so instead for those up to it, a dip in the water was the most effective form of action

And then, having achieved nothing of real consequence each day (except for a state of bliss which is in fact critical), there was only time to watch the sunset and then take in the stars later on as they crowded the clear night sky.






These were, by far, some of the most difficult and trying days in our adventure :-)

No flights as the crow flies to Seychelles

Spent yesterday just relaxing and getting everything in order.
First flight out was to Hong Kong. We were only there for a few hours so didn't have time to make it around our hood. Finally J was able to experience the current Cathay Business Class cabin before the redesign takes place and she was most happy about it. Turns out we may have ridden out our luck since the aircraft experienced the ever popular "technical problems". To hear the pilot explain it matter of factly would have disguised just how big a problem it was but we'll never know thankfully. Now it was time to deplane and wait to reboard another craft in two hours. Jeanna was a bit incredulous but credit to Cathay they kept to their word. Even better it was the same model aircraft so we were able to keep our B class seats. Might as well enjoy it while we can as poverty catches up to us and airline miles wane!

Next flight was out to Dubai. This airport looks to have become even larger from three years ago when last I was here. It's 1am but it seems more like a bustling metropolis at 1pm in the afternoon. It's crowded!
Found some lounge chairs to coax some sleep (credit to Dubai airport they have plenty of lounging space) for 6 hours till flight call.

Next up was Seychelles and that was smooth enough. Back down to earth in economy :)
Made it to checkin with one eye open and then it was time to get some rest. We have arrived.


View Larger Map

Which stupa, what tv?

Scoped out the stupa on the hill the day before that we wanted to visit. Took a taxi up there and realized it was the wrong one. That's fine since this one was also significant with all the pilgrims walking around it.

Spent the rest of the time looking for some trinket to buy as a reminder of Tibet here in Nepal. Confusing yes but there was no time last week across the border.

Found nothing and it was back to the hotel.
Just can't win for a television here. First time around they replaced it with one that was worse. This trip they went one better and just dispensed with a tv period. More confusing was there surprise when I inquired downstairs. "There's a problem with the tv"
- "What is wrong?"
"Well there isn't one?"
- "What do you mean?"

The humor of it all meant that I was laughing inside with the clincher that they would have one there by tomorrow (checkout). Didn't matter though, it was a pleasant hotel in all other respects.

No lights no nothing....

Ride back to Kathmandu. Obligatory roadside accidents on the way.
No room at the guest house we intended so spent the night instead elsewhere a block away.

However combined with the not too pleasant interior and the now prevalent rolling electricity blackouts it seems Jeanna's had enough of both.

Rhino hunt...saw crocs instead

Some prefer to ride the elephants on these hikes to avoid walking unsuspectingly upon a sleeping rhino.
Today we were fine however since there was none present. A bunch of near misses and then the sun was too hot so that all animals had retired to the shade and resting holes.

In the afternoon there was the more interesting canoe ride where we saw the crocs, one a bit too close and fast for comfort in our flimsy vessel. But I'm writing this so it means we made it.

Flimsy no?

The group that scared the crocs our way

After that was a trip to the Elephant orphanage which show them to be chained or protected (depending on your perspective) and back to the river.

A good contrasting experience to the Anapurna highlands

Chitwan Park

Early start to catch that 7am departure. .
Two bus crashes on the way thus maintaining the running average

Enjoyed sunset and drinks with our friends the mosquitoes

Last day in Pokhara

Really enjoyable relaxing place if you end up in the right location. We walked through the more populated parts of the area (an adventure tours shop every other building) and along the lake just relaxing before heading to the national park tomorrow.

Bought myself a cheap jersey. Someone took that as reason enough to do a lot more shopping and so more money leaves the coffers :)

Last leg, the way back...

Have met some interesting people on this trail. There was one couple who had been in the mountains for weeks. We thought they were heading down finally but they were about to go back in for another route. God love them but we are not currently fit enough to comprehend what that means. So downhill for us where we got to continually admire the porters and how much they carry for their companies. We traveled light thankfully so carried our own packs. I couldn't imagine doing this for weeks sometimes.

Made it to the end, did the usual haggling/fighting for bus and car ride and ended up back at our hotel.
Since we got back a day earlier there was no room so we had to carry our luggage for a walk to find somewhere else. The thundershower that blessed our journey was not a happy companion.
All's well though, back safe and sound.

Madness at 4am, Thunderstorm at 10am

The idea is that you make an early start to get up to the mountain and enjoy the first rays of sunrise.
We put in our sleep hours and were up and ready to go. Odd again now is that we couldn't see anyone else rustling on the trail. Where did all these people go who passed us yesterday?
Finally as we were halfway up we started seeing the other torches from those who were obviously following a different route. That at least let us know we were all on the right mountain!
Got to the top and it was a zoo. Seems this being the full moon, the more avid photographers were up there a wee bit earlier to capture the passage from night into day. It was worth it to come up here especially since the clouds would roll in soon after.

Worth it? Yes

Can't wait for breakfast

After breakfast we made our way out to beat the rush. Not really possible since the other trail heads means you are always likely to run into someone. Made it to the highest point on the path which presented wonderful views of the mountainside. Only problem was the clouds had rolled in and there was lightning everywhere, not the best environment for the top of a mountain. So we kicked it into high gear to make it down below as quickly as our huffs and puffs would take us. No need nor desire to have that happen again.

Green and Blue

Storm coming. Race begins downhill

Made it downhill where it was now much warmer and the bright colors where everywhere. This was a long day and we were almost to the next planned stop when the hail started coming again. Thankfully it was brief and we made it to the inn for the evening...

Much clearer now

A time for rest

First Ever Hail Storm

Got up to a pleasant sunrise and made our way up the hill for a bit only to realize we were at one of the agreed checkpoints within 2 hours. That meant we pretty much had the rest of the day to relax at Ghorepani. Odd though since it seems that everyone is going past us up the hill so we were wondering a bit whether we were actually still too far down the slope. A bit late now since we have already paid for a room so it's just wait to see now.

In made no sense taking a trip up to the view point since it was cloudy in the afternoon and the hail storm that pummeled everything outside after was the even better reason not to move. So we stayed in a large hotel with two others (Chris and Chris) that we had met on the trail and sat down in the lounge since it was the only heat available. Joyous

No pictures to share of this experience since it would have meant a broken camera most likely

Short circuit. long walking

In the interest of time, decided that we didn't need to stay in Nepal for the original set of planned weeks as we could use the additional time for Seychelles and the Middle East. With that in mind, we took one of the short Anapurna circuits to have a look at the sights before a change of scenery later on.

We walked and walked and walked and owing to a lack of a proper lunch which we should have taken the time to eat, we would not have arrived at our first night stop so exhausted. Those steps to Bhanthanti are a killer if you're not prepared.

.

 

.

 

 

 

 

The view from the room though seemed to be worth it. The price of accommodation is incredibly cheap but they make up for that with the price of food and drinks. Nowhere else to go once you're on the trail!

Pokhara

The bus ride here was not in itself a dangerous one but the two crashed buses at the side of the road did not help matters. Rode into the city amidst a carnival atmosphere down at the lake where they were having celebrations and a concert.
Settled ourselves in the city and made arrangements for one of the hiking trails to tackle.

Finally a Television - WrestleMania 27!!!

Not had much luck with tv's in Tibet. Not that you need to have one since you shouldn't be camped out in a room, but it's good to keep up with current events if there is no internet or entertainment options.
Got to Kathmandu and there were even problems here.
When they finally half fixed it (instead of cable we ended up with satellite/local hybrid) I decided to just settle down and relax since there was not much on the agenda today.

So instead I reminded myself that wrestling was indeed real and saw the goliaths, the likes of Undertaker defeat Triple H, The ROCK return, Stone Cold Steve Austin referee and the largest audience ever for this event.

Ahh the memories....

Temple Walk...

After finding a room we didn't do much the day before except enjoy the shower and the warmer conditions. (Nice not to be on a 4000m plateau anymore).
Today, map in hand, was the discovery by foot of all the major sites in the city center. No signs in any language I could read so a map becomes your best friend.

.

.

.






What's interesting and has been mentioned by others is how the city is one big free museum where all these great historical subjects are treated just like any other building. Sit and do what you will. It speaks well for the authenticity of it all.

Across the border - Nepal

View Larger Map

After the rather detailed and procedural crossing on the China side and having my passport and bagged checked and rechecked we crossed into Nepal. Seems that they let China do all the work of immigration checks because here you just walk in get your stamp and you are on your way.

So off to Kathmandu at pace and it doesn't help to see a bus that had nosedived in one of the ravines only a few hours earlier. These accidents were to become a running theme.

Borders and Ridiculous Checkpoints.

Have to make our way to the Nepal border now. The checkpoints along the way seem a bit repressive and it's odd knowing how to respond to someone literally half your age in fatigues saluting you while he takes your passport to review.

The border is just that and no more. A place to cross or rest for the night before crossing. So we got there just in time before the rain and settled in for the night and managed some sleep through the raucous music in the nearby club (or was that downstairs). At 4am they were still going so it must have been good.

Saying goodbye was more bitter than sweet as it seems to be the last embers of a rich culture about to be absorbed or overrun by the majority depending on your view. All that can be asked now is that there is something there for people to visit in years to come.

To see the top of the world...

The original plan was to stay in a guest tent near Everest Base Camp and then take in the sunrise the next day.
With the weather not too promising we stayed a town away instead.
That was even colder than two nights prior and once again it was no different from camping outdoors in the winter, only difference being a roof over your head which was no protection from the elements let me tell you.
So this with the early wake up call meant a rough start to the day.
 However all was well once we came through the pass and looked over to the Himalayas...

Since we were not planning a climb and it was cold we didn't stick around too long and headed to check out the view from Base Camp where things were pretty quiet given this is the more difficult (and expensive) side to climb from.

He of the Dark Skin and Strange Hair

More of the monastery tours and sacred sites.

While it's not a given, it's a sure bet that many of the locals here are struck by the apparently different looking male who travels as a tourist among their ranks. Unlike that one crazy in Mongolia, these people here are genuinely curious in a kind and welcoming manner. Doesn't help that we can't understand each other but a smile is a smile in any language we gather.

It is also becoming increasingly evident that I need a haircut soon or some form of grooming to remain recognizable. NOT going to happen

Remote Monastery Tours

The importance of all these sights is overshadowed by the small population of monks who live here now.
Others have fled/migrated across the border to continue practices

.

.

.

.

.

 

Tonight our room had both hot water and at least a little heating. Now we got to strip down at least
to two layers of clothes instead of the 5 from last night.

Like an igloo

Khambala pass and Yamdrok Lake all along the Friendship way that runs 5000K across the continent.

.

For the evening's accommodation?
Nice room, good beds, no hot water, no heat. So when the sun set it was just like being
at home in the arctic. The only thing this room afforded us was protection from the wind.
That apart it was basically camping on a wooden floor.

Truly new age

Potala palace and Jokham palace.
Walk don't run.
Take your time going up these stairs. The thin air only makes for bigger gasping breaths if
you pretend to have the same sea level ability here. Palaces were worth it.
Humble pie moment was watching the monk with his ipad in the coffee shop. We are so behind
the times!

Potala

Across the hills